Travels in Russia

We had some interesting times during our two years in the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics.  I was Naval Attaché in our embassy in Moscow.

In March, 1983 we flew to Siberia.

Marty and I flew to Irkutsk with Jim and Mary Furleigh.  He is a Marine, and assistant naval attaché.

We arranged for a tour with Lyudmila of Intourist to Lake Baikal, a very pretty 70 km drive, along the Angara River to the lake. It was cold, (-17deg. C) but little snow as they get little precip and much sun 200+ days a year.  This is Taiga, rolling hills, birch, some 40 varieties, and coniferous.  Buryats live here, but 90 per cent of Irkutians are Russian.  We drive through two villages, all rustic wooden cottages (domiks), with outdoor wells, poor souls hauling their water all winter.  It gets down to –40 deg. C here, but Lake Baikal is a vast heat sink, as temp is 6-8 deg. C colder in summer and warmer in winter than Irkutsk.  Few people have electricity.

Angara is the “son” of Lake Baikal, the only one of some 336 rivers to flow out of this lake.  If all 335 dried up, it would take the Angara 500 years to drain the lake.

We stopped at a spot where shaman worshipping Buryats tie bits of cloth to trees, just like we saw at a Moslem mausoleum thousands of kilometers away in Samara.

The Buryats' home republic (ASSR) is just across L. Baikal, capital Ulan Ude. Mountains can be seen 40 km away , across the frozen lake.  Trucks are driving across the lake, and will until mid April.   We stop near shaman rock, at point where Lake flows into Angara, where there is little ice, and have a drink out of the river .  Water is cold and very clear, delicious.

  We leave bus to walk to a small wooden church but have to cross a flooded area and a mountain stream, all hard frozen with a definite slope.  Hard going.  We meet a bunch of kids coming back across the ice.  No trouble.  In the afternoon Jim and I make separate runs—mine is 4 miles and the Marine’s is 8-9 miles. 

The next day Jim and I took cab to the train station, walked across the River Irkutsk, caught a bus to Novolenino and walked up Sovietsky Partizan street, followed all the way by rather obvious KGB agents.  

Several “concerned workers” surrounded us and nabbed us as we strolled in front of a Backfire Bomber factory, and demanded our documents.  It was obviously a KGB scene. We demanded their documents.  Two embarrassed factory guards showed up, we produced diplomatic cards, names are recorded, and we left, with escorts. 

At 6:28 pm that same day we all take a cab to the train station and catch the Trans-Siberian enroute Novosibirsk.  Dinner in the restaurant car enroute Zima (winter).  Good name for a Siberian town.  Every time we ask for another bottle of mineral water, the waitress asks this little couple to get up, and they dutifully arise, so she can pull bottles out of the icebox under their seats. 

In the station at Zima, we watch people climbing aboard the Irkutsk-Taishet train.  Men lift an old lady up.  A woman walking home with her husband is nagging him.  “Vsyaw ravno,” (All the same) he says.  “Crazy!” she says.  The conductors watch them and laugh.  

We travel westward toward Moscow on the Trans-Siberian Railway for two days, until we reach Novosibirsk.  That's enough Trans-Sib for us this time.  You see several hundred miles of snow, birch trees and more snow, and you've pretty much gotten the picture of the Trans-Siberian.

More stories about the USSR later.  Here are some books about Russia and the USSR:

Memories of the Russian Court, First Edition, Reprinted, November 1923  by Viroubova, Anna 1923 New York, NY: The MacMillan Co. "It is with a prayerful heart and memories deep and reverent that I begin to write the story of my long and intimate friendship with Alexandra Feodorovna, wife of Nicholas II….and of the tragedy of the Revolution which brought on her and hers such undeserved misery, and on our unhappy country such a black night of oblivion."  The author tells of life at court in St. Petersburg, and Peterhof, Tsarskoe Selo, Livadia and elsewhere; how the Emperor whistled for the Empress, the children, and for Viroubova. Book contains many excellent photos of the Imperial family, including several aboard the Imperial Yacht Standert.  Photos of letters from Nicholas II and his children to the author are particularly poignant. One of the last letters from the Empress was written in Old Slavonic.  400 pp. 14 x 20.6 cm. Brick red decorated cloth on board, very clean and fresh. Plate showing letters in Old Slavonic is loose. Owner bookplate (William C. Bowlen, Dec. 1923) on front endpaper. No dustjacket. Very good. (5706) $190.00. History/Russia

Detskoye Selo --Parks and Palaces  Tourist Guide for Intourists [in English] N. Arkhangelsky, Editor 1934 Leningrad, USSR: Park and Palace Dept., Leningrad Soviet. Early in the life of the Soviet Union, this little Stalin-era guide was produced for English-speaking Intourist visitors to St. Peterburg, and especially for the 26 kilometer trip  to Tsarskoye Selo, renamed by the Soviets "Detskoye Selo" or "Children's Village" in 1918, reflecting the Soviets' uneasiness with the history of the Tsars.  In re-naming it, the Soviets designated this village one for caring for children, and this text states that "formerly the domain of a privileged few, have become a source of education and enlightenment" for the masses. In 1937 it was re-named "Pushkin". Text in this little book tells about life in the time of the Tsars, but is generous with the Soviet approach. Photos show Catherine Palace, Gala Hall, Amber Hall, Large Throne Hall, White Hall, Drawing Room, Private Chambers of Catherine II, Alexander Palace, Chinese Theatre, more. 64 pp. 10.7 x 14.4 cm. Paper booklet with dustjacket with view of Catherine Palace, minor wear and chips on dustjacket, booklet very good. (8122) $65.00. Travel

Queue in Red Square

V.O.K.S. Published by the Soviet Union Society for Cultural Relations with Foreign Countries, Vol. II No. 4, 1931    Yoffe, Yakovlev, Semyakin, Mikhailov, Tsypkin, et al 1931 Moscow, USSR: VOKS,  Trubnikovsky Pereulok, 17. V.O.K.S. (Vsyesoyuznii Obschestvo Kulturniyi Svyazii Zagranitsiy), All-Union Society for Cultural Relations with Foreign Countries was founded in 1925 and widely recognized as Stalin's heavy-handed effort at foreign propaganda.  "The Planning of Science"-- how it is done with the new Five-Year Plan, by the new socialist people. The language of the "Dictatorship of the Proletariat" referring to the "shock-brigade troops and the storming detachment of Communist Youth" is so obviously immature, in its attempt to speak to a sophisticated foreign audience, yet satisfy all the propaganda needs of an ignorant bureaucracy at home. "Tecnics of the Future" by Academician A.F. Yoffe. talks of new ideas for harnessing solar energy, and efforts to harness water power (Volkhovstroi, Svirstroi, Dneprostroi). Poem "Industrial 1931" by Vassili Semyakin, a worker in a Moscow Co-operative Candy Factory. "The Fight for the Metal" story by N. Mikhailov, worker at the "Sickle and Hammer" Sheet-rolling Factory produces a fanciful story of the massive effort in the factory to fulfill the Five-Year Plan. Photos and text tell story of return of Maxim Gorki to Moscow in May, 1931. "What is Polytechnical Education?" by I. Pistrak includes photos of men and women learning on heavy machines. "Sverdlovia" Communist University by E. Ukhalov. Photo essay shows foreign workers in the USSR; Italian woman instructs Uzbek women workers in silk mill. 100 pp. 17 x 26 cm. Periodical, heavy cardboard cover loose from text block, spine worn, edges frayed. Fair. (8126) $85.00. History/Propaganda/Soviet Union

Caucasus Crimea Map by Intourist ca. 1955 Moscow, USSR: Intourist. Fold out color pictorial map shows USSR from Odessa on Black Sea, includes Sea of Azov to Astrakhan on the Caspian, south to Batumi on Turkish border, Lenkoran on Iranian border. Folder 80 x 53 cm. Folder with fold-out map, moderate wear, good. (8127) $20.00. Maps

Detskoye Selo --Parks and Palaces  Tourist Guide for Intourists [in English] N. Arkhangelsky, Editor 1934 Leningrad, USSR: Park and Palace Dept., Leningrad Soviet. Early in the life of the Soviet Union, this little Stalin-era guide was produced for English-speaking Intourist visitors to St. Peterburg, and especially for the 26 kilometer trip  to Tsarskoye Selo, renamed by the Soviets "Detskoye Selo" or "Children's Village" in 1918, reflecting the Soviets' uneasiness with the history of the Tsars.  In re-naming it, the Soviets designated this village one for caring for children, and this text states that "formerly the domain of a privileged few, have become a source of education and enlightenment" for the masses. In 1937 it was re-named "Pushkin". Text in this little book tells about life in the time of the Tsars, but is generous with the Soviet approach. Photos show Catherine Palace, Gala Hall, Amber Hall, Large Throne Hall, White Hall, Drawing Room, Private Chambers of Catherine II, Alexander Palace, Chinese Theatre, more. 64 pp. 10.7 x 14.4 cm. Paper booklet with dustjacket with view of Catherine Palace, minor wear and chips on dustjacket, booklet very good. (8122) $65.00. Travel

Leningrad --Putyevodityel' dlya Inturistov Guide for Intourists [in English]           N. Arkhangelsky, Editor 1934 Leningrad, USSR: Park and Palace Dept., Leningrad Soviet. Early in the life of the Soviet Union, this little guide was produced for English-speaking Intourist visitors to St. Petersburg. Text in this little book is heavy with early Soviet jargon, touting the Land of Glorious Socialism. Pictures of Statue of Lenin, Ploschad Vostaniya, Winter Palace, the Neva, The Europe Hotel, Statue of Peter I, Exchange and Rostral Columns, Tractor Street,  more.  Cover features drawing of Rostral column.  64 pp. 10.7 x 14.4 cm. Paper booklet with dustjacket containing picture of scene along the Neva. Minor wear and chips on dustjacket, booklet very good. (8120) $35.00. Travel

Peterhof --Parks and Palaces  Tourist Guide to Tsar's Summer Residence near Leningrad [in English] N. Arkhangelsky, Editor 1934 Leningrad, USSR: Park and Palace Dept., Leningrad Soviet. Early in the life of the Soviet Union, this little guide was produced for English-speaking Intourist visitors to St. Petersburg, and especially for the 30 kilometer trip by water to Peterhof. Text in this little book tells about life in the time of the Tsars, but is generous with the Soviet approach, noting that at Peterhof is now a town of rest for the workers of the Soviet Union. Photos show Mon Plaisir, Study and Chair of Peter I, Large Fountain Cascade and Palace,  front staircase, Chesma Hall, Peter's Hall, Picture Hall, Gothic Chapel, Railroad Carriages of Nicholas II, more. Dust jacket  features drawing of Fountains.  64 pp. 10.7 x 14.4 cm. Paper booklet with dustjacket, minor wear and chips on dustjacket, booklet very good. (8121) $35.00. Travel

Posev Ezhenedelnik Obschestvennoy I Politichestkoi Mysli (Weekly Social and Political Thought), with Zarubezhnoe Prllozhenoye (The Sowing, and anti-Bolshevik Journal,  with foreign supplement), Sunday, 27 December 1953. [In Russian]  1953 Munich, Germany: Posev Izdatyels'stvo Posev (The sowing) was the journal of an anti-Bolshevik organization. "Military Attaché in Moscow-- Richard Hilton" tells story of his work in USSR. Lead article in this issue: "Process of G. Mueller (N. Khorunzhego) is Completed"--On Friday 18 December the Frankfurt American Court completed the process of George Muller (N. Khorunzhego) and his wife Elizabeth Mueller, accused of Soviet Espionage. This report takes up nearly three pages of this issue.  Bureau of KTsAV has asked to publish this letter to the Editor of the Washington Post that underlines the fact that American social opinion wholly approves of the Committee for Freeing from Bolshevism, etc. Letter, from Munich, is signed by S.P. Mel'gunov, President of Bureau. Ads for forthcoming issue of "Mysl'" (Thought) from the Posev Press; Bust of A.S. Pushkin, price 16.50 Marks (20 kron.); ad for gift books for Christmas from Posev Press includes several by N. Gogol, one by N. Nekrasov, one by Tretyakov, one by Chekhov, and one by L. Tolstoi. "Sovietskie Prosoyuzi" (Soviet Tradeunions) by S. Kursanov.  "Za Slovesnoi Shirmoi" (Behind the Masked Words) --- "Besklassove Obschestvo" (Classless Society); "Diktatura Proteliariata"  (Dictatorship of the Proletariat); "Religia--Opium dlya Naroda" (Religion--opium for the people); "Akuli s Uoll-Streeta" (Sharks of Wall Street). 16 pp. 30 x 42 cm. Newspaper, small tear in fold, main section unopened, very good.(8079) $33.00. Cold War

Soviet Theatre ca. 1950 Moscow, USSR. Collection of photos of Soviet theatre performances of 1950s, including actors Y. Tolubeyev, Z. Kirienko, A. Shatov, G. Stepanova, G. Menglet, V. Lepko, A. Kruglov, V. Orlova, T. Samoilova, R. Nifontova, V. Pashennaya and A. Katsynsky; Ballerina Galina Ulanova as Juliet, Yuri Zhdanov as Romeo. 26 pp. 27 x 18 cm. (5695) $15.00. Travel/Educational

 Kartinniy Slovar' Russkogo Yazika,  Chast' Vtoraya [Picture Dictionary of the Russian Language, Part Two] In Russian. Eighth Edition by Chekhov, N.V. 1959 Moscow, USSR: Gosudarstvyennoye Uchebno-Pedagogicheskoye Izdatyelstvo Ministerstvo Prosvyeschenniya RSFSR Uchebnoye Posoviye dlya Uchashchikhsya Nyerusskikh Nachal'nik Shkol. Editor's note states that textbook was the work of N.V. Chekhov, who has died. His work was fulfilled by Kh. G. Khakimov. Text book provides guidance for instructors teaching non-Russian students using illustrations. Illustrations include several Communist banners and Pioneers holding banners. Cover shows teacher with children in pastoral scene, with children gathering flowers. . 68 pp. 21 x 26 cm. Illustrated paper on board with tape spine, very good. (4060) $19.00. Educational/Russia

Hitler Marches in the Soviet Zone of Germany by Otto. Bertram 1961 Bonn, Germany: Berto-Verlag G.M.B.H. Book of excellent photos of Nazi era and Soviet era show how Hitler's regime is re-created by Soviets in their zone of Germany under Ulbricht. Same no-choice elections, Same dullness. Same marching troops. Same police state. Very skilful, sometimes funny anti-Soviet propaganda.  94 pp. 24 x 22 cm. Paper booklet, cover shows photos of Nazi troops marching for Hitler and Soviet troops marching with same goose-step. Cover shows moderate wear, very good. (6546) $22.00. Cold War/Communism

Around the Kremlin, The Moscow Kremlin, its Monuments and works of art 1967 Moscow, USSR: Progress Publishers. Excellent collection of color and black and white photos from Kremlin museums, Kremlin churches and towers; Kremlin St. George's Hall, Armoury. 241 pp. 15 x 18 cm. White cloth on board, decorated, plastic cover, very good. (5122) $16.00. Travel.

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